geothermal heat pump answers

5 Quick Geothermal Heat Pump Answers


You’ve got real geothermal heat pump questions, but you don’t have time to scour the web. Fortunately, we do have real geothermal heat pump answers, so you don’t have to.


Hey, you’re welcome.


Today’s 5 Top Geothermal Heat Pump Answers


We don’t have the space to answer every single geothermal heat pump question you might have. What we can do is pick some of the top geothermal questions, and give you our best information.


So, that’s exactly what we’ve done.


Question #1 – How much interior space does a geothermal heat pump need?


About as much as a typical HVAC unit. Most of a geothermal heat pump installation goes underground, so you don’t need a particularly large house to accommodate the system.


Question #2 – How noisy are geothermal heat pumps?


They aren’t. Outside A/C condensers can be really loud, but geothermal heat pumps don’t rely on one. All the noise a geothermal unit makes is contained in an insulated cabinet or underground.


Question #3 – How long will the underground pipe loop last?


Not very long.


Just kidding. Most geothermal ground loops are rated for about 50 YEARS of use. So, yeah, obviously that’s a while.


Question #4 – Will I really save money with geothermal?


Of all the geothermal heat pump answers we might provide, this is our favorite. Yes, you will save money with a geothermal heat pump. The average homeowner pays back the cost of installation in 5-10 years and some do it in as little as three.


Don’t believe us? Just ask the U.S. Department of Energy what they think.


Question #5 – Is geothermal really good for the environment?


Yes, they are.


You’re using electricity, right? Since you’re reading this on the Internet, I’m going to assume you are. That electricity comes from a power plant that’s most likely running on fossil fuels. It takes a lot of energy from fossil fuels to power America’s thirsty air conditioners.


Geothermal heat pumps are remarkably energy efficient, so you won’t need as much electricity as you once did. If we all used less, there would be a lot fewer carbon emissions released into the atmosphere. That is clearly better for the environment.


But, I’ve still got questions!


Don’t worry, we’ll be back in future blogs with more geothermal heat pump answers. Of course, if you have a burning question, just ask in the comments or drop us a line via email.


We’d love to hear from you!


9 thoughts on “5 Quick Geothermal Heat Pump Answers”

  1. I like how you ask, “Will I really save money with geothermal?”. I’ve never given much thought to this before. I’d love to find out more about this kind of technology. Furthermore, it would help me decide if it’s right for me. How much do these pumps cost?

    1. The surface components of a geothermal heat pump are priced similarly to conventional HVAC equipment – a few thousand dollars depending on size and quality. You won’t spend much more than that with an open loop installation. Closed loop installations, the more common type, can get more expensive, since substantial earthwork is required. However, even with those additional costs, geothermal heat pumps can still save a homeowner more than a traditional central heating & air system.

  2. I didn’t know that a heating pump would cost as much as a typical HVAC unit. That would make it really easy for me to get. I would also like to not deal with the noise that often comes from those units.

    1. Yes, the physical operating equipment is comparable in price. The cost that intimidates many homeowners is the expense of doing the necessary groundwork for some installations.

  3. I have looked everywhere and I can find no information on temperature range of water dispersion. If I had some info it would help me determine if I go this route.

    What I want to do is use my pool as an open loop. I have seen this done in Texas and thought my situation maybe perfect. In Texas they add a cooling tower, but I do not think I would even need one. I have read all the information about turning your pool into a hot tub or sauna, but in all cases it is people using a pool half my size. I have also contemplated the pool water on the coil, but since I monitor my pool and keep it nearly balanced perfectly and your coils are cupro-nickel they should be fine. I may not get full lifespan, but the geothermal cost savings should out way having to replace a coil.

    Here is my set up. I have Pool: 20’x50′ rectangle 3.5′ to 12′ deep approximately 56,100 gallons, enclosed in a 26’x64′ concrete block building. Maximum temperature in summer 84 deg. Lowest average temperature in winter 66 deg. Research has shown me the temperature of the pool coincides exactly with the ground temperature in my area, which is central Florida. I want to use a 5 ton 2 stage unit for approximately 2500 sqft.

    My calculations I have the equivalent of over 400,000 btu’s. It would take over 50 hours for a geothermal unit to cycle the complete pool. If I knew what the temperature of the water dispersion I think I can determine what if any the effect on my pool temperature would be. I would be using the geothermal for cooling so putting more hot water in the pool is a concern if it gets above a certain temperature.

    Common sense tells me it would be minimal, because the pool would dissipate the heat almost as fast.

    Can you help me?

    1. We’ll help as much as we can, however we are not and do not claim to be an engineering firm.

      We generally do not suggest using a pool as a source for a geothermal unit, however we are aware that some customers have done so. The problem generally is that the unit will warm the water in the pool when it is operating in AC, and it will cool the pool when it is operating in heat mode. In the extended hot parts of summer the pool may get uncomfortably hot, and it will not function as efficiently as it would with cooler incoming water. If there were to be extended periods of heating use, it could perhaps drop the temperature of the pool to near freezing levels. We have also heard of situations where the water leaving the unit does not mix adequately with the pool water and makes a “short circuit” thru the pool- we have seen this same condition a number of times with wells where water is pulled from the well, then dumped back into the same well. If you have good quality water (TDS under 1000) and the Ph is maintained, the CuproNickel heat exchanger coil should be fine.

      I’m sorry I can’t offer more help!

      1. Please explain what you mean by “water leaving the unit does not mix adequately with the pool water and makes a “short circuit” thru the pool”. Do you know what the temperature of the water is leaving the unit? Or the temperature range when using as AC?


        1. Water will follow the path of least resistance- if one opening is discharging water and another is drawing water, the water from the discharge port will make a straight path to the other port.

          Normal temperature differential (incoming water to outgoing water) is 10 to 12F in AC mode.

        2. You will need to calculate the temperature of the exiting water temperature. To do this you will need the units BTU rating, the incoming temperature and the flow rate through the unit. 1 BTU is the energy required to heat one pound of water by 1 degree F. Here is an example, let’s say you have a 3 ton unit that can reject 36000 BTU per hour. You have a flow rate of 10 gallons per minute through the unit. A gallon of water weighs 8.34 lbs. Your incoming temperature is 70 degrees F. The formula is pretty straight forward. BTU/minutes in an hour/flow/pounds per gallon + incoming temp. So we would have 36000/60/10/8.38 +70 = 77.19 degrees.

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